Best Used TaylorMade Irons in NZ: M2, M4, M6, SIM & Stealth Compared

The Short Answer

For most golfers shopping used TaylorMade irons today, a SIM2 Max set is the safest pick: recent enough to feel current, forgiving enough to suit most swings, and increasingly reasonable on price. If your budget is tighter, a genuinely clean M2 or M4 set under about $600 does the job for a lot less money.

M1 and P790 suit narrower situations rather than being universally "better" or "worse": M1 makes sense if it's clearly cheaper than a comparable M4 or M6, and P790 is for someone who specifically wants a more compact, players-style shape while keeping real forgiveness. The right pick comes down to your budget, the set makeup, and the condition of the actual clubs in front of you, not just the model name.

See our current used iron sets if you already know roughly what you're after.

Quick Comparison

Which Used TaylorMade Iron Should You Buy?

TaylorMade has released a lot of iron models over the last decade, so the challenge isn't finding a TaylorMade iron set, it's knowing which ones are worth buying. A set that's up to 10 years old can still be a genuinely capable option if the condition, shaft and set makeup stack up. We've kept this to the models that actually turn up in the NZ secondhand market in useful numbers. It's not a full TaylorMade history, just the sets worth genuinely considering.

TaylorMade M1 irons (2016)

M1 doesn't get much attention next to M2, M4 and M6, mostly because it was aimed at better ball-strikers rather than because it's a poor club. It's still a legitimate used option, not something to write off as obsolete or a model to skip. Presentation-wise, it sits slightly more compact than the more forgiveness-focused M Series options that followed it, without giving up much in the way of usability for most golfers.

Where M1 makes the most sense is when it's clearly cheaper than a comparable M4 or M6 set. We wouldn't normally pay a premium for M1 over the later, more forgiving models, but if you find a clean set going for noticeably less, condition, shaft and price matter more here than the fact it's a few years older. For a used M1, around $575 is the figure we'd currently have in mind when assessing a good set.

TaylorMade M2 irons (2016)

M2 is one of the easiest used TaylorMade recommendations to make. It's forgiving, easy to launch, and there's plenty of supply in the secondhand market, which keeps prices sensible.

For a used M2, roughly $525 to $675 is the range we'd currently have in mind when assessing a good set, depending on condition, shaft and set makeup. Around $600 is still sensible, and below $600 a good M2 starts to look particularly strong value.

If you're newer to the game and weighing up whether M2 is forgiving enough for where you're at, our guide to used golf clubs for beginners covers what to look for at this end of the market.

One thing worth keeping in mind: if an M2 is close in price to a comparable M4 or M6, we'd generally favour the newer option. M2 earns its place mainly when it's genuinely cheaper.

TaylorMade M4 irons (2018)

M4 is one of our preferred older-value picks in the whole TaylorMade lineup. It strikes a good balance of forgiveness, availability and age, and used pricing tends to sit in a sensible range given what the club actually does. For most golfers wanting an affordable, no-fuss game-improvement iron, M4 does the job without asking you to compromise much. For a used M4, roughly $650 to $750 is the range we'd currently have in mind when assessing a good set, depending on condition, shaft and set makeup.

TaylorMade M6 irons (2019)

Worth correcting a common misconception here: the standard M6 iron is not a hollow-body, P790-style construction. It uses TaylorMade's Speed Bridge, a brace across the back of the head that stabilises the face and improves feel, along with a Thru-Slot Speed Pocket and a thin, flexible face designed to add ball speed on shots struck low on the face. It's a forgiving, distance-focused game-improvement iron with a generous head, built for golfers who want help getting the ball up and out rather than a compact players shape.

M6 is particularly attractive when it's only modestly more expensive than M4. At that point the extra forgiveness and distance are usually worth the small step up in price. For a used M6, roughly $600 to $700 is the range we'd currently have in mind when assessing a good set, depending on condition, shaft and set makeup.

TaylorMade SIM Max and SIM Max OS irons (2020)

The 2020 SIM iron family was SIM Max and SIM Max OS, not a smaller standard "SIM iron" underneath. SIM Max OS is the more forgiving of the two, with a larger head and a wider sole.

These are worth considering if you want a design newer than the M series without stretching to SIM2 Max pricing. For most golfers, the choice between SIM Max and SIM2 Max should come down to the price difference in front of you rather than any dramatic performance gap.

TaylorMade SIM2 Max and SIM2 Max OS irons (2021)

For most typical used buyers, this is where we'd start. SIM2 Max is our strongest all-round recommendation in the used TaylorMade range: forgiving, consistent, and recent enough to feel current without commanding Stealth-level pricing.

That doesn't mean it's dramatically better than SIM Max. It's an evolution rather than a leap, and the cap-back construction carried through from here into Stealth. If SIM Max and SIM2 Max are close in price, we'd lean SIM2 Max. If the gap is wide, SIM Max is still a perfectly good set.

TaylorMade Stealth irons (2022)

Standard Stealth irons are a genuinely good club. The real question for a used buyer isn't whether Stealth performs, it's whether the price gap over SIM2 Max is worth it. If Stealth is only a little more expensive, that's an easy choice. If it's a lot more, we'd want a good reason beyond "newer" before paying up.

TaylorMade Stealth HD irons (2023)

Stealth HD came a year after standard Stealth, not two, so it's worth being precise: these aren't "Stealth 2 HD" irons, they're the 2023 high-launch variant of the same family.

Stealth HD is built for a specific job: higher launch, a stronger draw bias, and maximum-game-improvement characteristics. That makes it the right tool for some golfers and the wrong one for others. It's not automatically "better" than standard Stealth, just more specialised toward golfers who want extra help getting the ball airborne and turning over.

TaylorMade P790 irons (multiple generations)

P790 gets cross-shopped against the game-improvement models a lot, so we've kept it in this guide even though it's a different type of club. It uses a hollow, foam-filled construction, genuinely different from the cavity-back and cap-back designs used across the M and SIM/Stealth ranges, and it's had a few generations since launch.

P790 suits someone who wants a cleaner, more compact players-performance shape while still keeping real forgiveness, rather than someone chasing maximum distance and error correction. That's a preference, not a handicap threshold. We wouldn't assign P790 to a rigid handicap band, and we wouldn't automatically prefer it over SIM2 Max or M6 just because it tends to cost more. If you want to understand the trade-off between a shape like P790 and a full game-improvement head, our guide to forgiving irons vs blades covers the underlying differences in more depth.

Because there are multiple P790 generations on the used market, always confirm which year you're looking at rather than assuming they're all the same club.

M2 vs M4 vs M6

All three are good, and none of them is a bad buy. The practical difference comes down to forgiveness and price.

• M2 is the most balanced of the three, useful if you still want some feel alongside the forgiveness.
• M4 gives similar forgiveness to M2 in a generally more current package, and at similar pricing we'd take M4.
• M6 pushes distance and forgiveness further, and is worth the small step up from M4 when the price difference is modest.

M2 remains a good buy around $600, and particularly below $600. M4 is generally worth a modest premium over M2 when the condition and shaft are comparable, since you're getting a slightly newer set for not much more. M6 is worth considering when it isn't significantly more expensive than M4, but it's not worth chasing at a large premium just for the name.

Condition, shaft and a sensible 5 through 9, PW set composition can easily outweigh a small generation difference. A clean M2 with the right shaft and set makeup can be a better buy than a tired M4 or M6, even before price comes into it. If you're choosing between all three at genuinely similar prices, we'd generally go newest first: M6, then M4, then M2. If M2 is meaningfully cheaper, that price gap can easily be the deciding factor instead.

SIM Max vs SIM2 Max

SIM2 Max builds on SIM Max rather than replacing it outright. Both are forgiving, both suit a similar type of golfer, and the on-course difference for most players is smaller than the model names suggest.

This is a price decision more than a performance decision. If SIM Max is noticeably cheaper, it's still a good set. If the gap to SIM2 Max is small, we'd generally pay it.

Best Used TaylorMade Irons by What You Need

• Best cheaper options: M1 and M2, assuming the shafts match and the set makeup makes sense.
• Best value step up: M4 and M6, when the premium over M1/M2 is modest rather than steep.
• Best newer used option: SIM Max and SIM2 Max, if you want a more current design without stepping all the way up to Stealth.
• Best for maximum launch help: Stealth HD, if you specifically want extra launch and draw bias.
• Best cleaner players-style option: P790, if you want a more compact shape while keeping real forgiveness.

What you'll actually pay for any of these depends on condition, shaft and set composition rather than the model name alone, so use this as a starting point for what to shortlist, not a price list.

What Do Used TaylorMade Irons Cost in NZ?

We're not going to hand you a broad NZ market range here. Used iron pricing varies too much by:

• condition
• shaft
• set composition
• seller

to make a single national figure meaningful for any given model. What we can give you is something more useful: our own current guidance for assessing a used set. Here's what we'd currently have in mind for M1, M2, M4 and M6.

These are SwingStock's current guide prices for assessing used sets, not claimed NZ market averages. Actual value depends on condition, shaft and set composition. We're not including SIM Max, SIM2 Max, Stealth, Stealth HD or P790 in this table, because pricing on those varies by generation and set composition and we don't have solid enough current evidence to put a defensible figure on them.

A few practical takeaways from those numbers:

• M1 around $575 is still a decent used option if the condition and shaft are right. It's not obsolete, and it's not a model to avoid.
• M2 sits between $525 and $675: around $600 is still sensible, and below $600 a good M2 starts to look particularly strong value.
• M4 sits between $650 and $750, generally a reasonable step up from M2 when the condition and shaft are comparable.
• M6 sits between $600 and $700, and is worth it when it isn't significantly more expensive than M4.
• Because these ranges overlap, a clean M2 with the right shaft and set makeup can cost about the same as a tired M4 or M6, so condition and shaft matter as much as which model you're comparing.

What to Inspect When Buying Used

Face and groove wear

Some wear is normal on a used iron and shouldn't put you off. What matters is heavy groove wear across the whole set, since that's what actually affects spin and control. We wouldn't say an iron face simply "loses responsiveness" with age. Focus on visible groove condition rather than assuming age alone is a problem.

Shafts

Steel: check for significant rust, pitting, dents or bends, especially near the tip and hosel.

Graphite: check for damage around the hosel, surface abrasion, splitting fibres and any structural damage.

Cosmetic scuffing is usually fine. Any of the issues above are worth walking away from or negotiating hard on.

Ferrules and heads

Slight ferrule creep isn't automatically a problem, it's common and mostly cosmetic. What to watch for is rattling, movement, visible gaps, or signs of a poor reshaft job.

Grips

Worn grips affect a set's value, but they're one of the cheapest and easiest things to fix. Factor a reasonable regrip cost into your offer rather than treating grip wear as a dealbreaker.

Set makeup

At the same price, we'd generally prefer a 5 through 9, PW set over a 6 through 9, PW, AW set when the condition and shaft are otherwise comparable. Both contain six clubs, but the matching 5 iron is generally more useful to already have and harder to replace later, whereas a suitable gap wedge is normally easier to add separately. Tracking down the exact matching 5 iron afterward can be genuinely difficult, and many golfers still need something between the 6 iron and their hybrid or fairway wood.

That's not an absolute rule. Some golfers don't want or use a 5 iron, and if that's you, a 6 through 9, PW, AW set can suit you just as well.

This is also why we photograph and grade the actual club rather than relying on a generic condition label. See how we grade used clubs.

Shaft Considerations

Beyond the physical condition checks above, there's a short checklist worth running through before you buy any used set:

• the exact shaft model, not just "steel" or "graphite"
• the stated flex
• whether every iron in the set actually matches
• whether the length looks like it's been altered from standard
• whether you already know you get on with a similar shaft

We don't include shaft weight on this list. SwingStock doesn't consistently know or publish shaft weight across its inventory, so it's not something we'll tell you to expect on every listing.

It's also worth avoiding overly simple rules of thumb here. Graphite isn't just "for seniors," and stiff isn't automatically "for low handicappers." Swing speed, tempo and what you're already comfortable with matter more than either label. If you're unsure what flex to start with, see our Golf Shaft Flex Guide.

Other Things Worth Verifying

Used TaylorMade sets can turn up with different stock shafts, unusual flex labels and different set compositions, so it's worth checking the exact specification rather than relying on the model name alone.

• exact model and generation
• exact shaft model
• stated flex
• clubs included in the set
• whether the shafts match throughout
• length, where known

None of those differences are automatically a problem. They just mean two sets carrying the same TaylorMade model name may not be identical. We say "where known" deliberately: we don't always have an exact measured length for every set, so don't assume that figure will be published for everything you're looking at.

Older TaylorMade Models We'd Still Consider

Outside the models covered above, older TaylorMade irons like the R9, R11 and RocketBladez still turn up secondhand from time to time. We're not going to cover the full history here, since most of the market has moved on to the models above. If you do come across one of these older sets, the same logic applies: check condition, check the shaft, and price it accordingly rather than paying M-series money for something a decade older.

Alternatives From Other Brands

If you're cross-shopping outside TaylorMade at a similar price point, a few ranges are worth a look:

• Callaway Rogue / Big Bertha: similar forgiveness and price bracket to the M series, and easy to find used at comparable money.
• Ping G / G410: consistently well regarded for forgiveness, and Ping's fitting-friendly colour-code system makes length and lie easier to match to you.
• Mizuno JPX Hot Metal: still forgiving but with a somewhat cleaner shape than a lot of game-improvement irons, worth a look if looks matter to you as well as ease of use.
• Cobra King F9 / SpeedZone / RADSPEED: good-value forgiving distance irons that tend to sell for less than the equivalent TaylorMade or Callaway on the used market.
• Callaway Apex: a more compact alternative worth cross-shopping if you're considering P790.

Brand aside, condition, shaft, set makeup and price matter more than which of these you end up with.

SwingStock Verdict

For most typical used buyers, we'd point you toward SIM2 Max first. It's recent enough to feel current, forgiving enough to suit a wide range of swings, and it's reached a price point in the secondhand market that represents genuine value.

If your budget is tighter, a clean M2 or M4 set under about $600 will do the job for a lot less money, and there's nothing wrong with buying on price at that end of the market as long as condition, shaft and set makeup check out.

M1 stays a legitimate option if you find one clearly cheaper than a comparable M4 or M6. Stealth and Stealth HD are worth it once the price gap to SIM2 Max narrows. And P790 is the right call for someone who wants a more compact players-performance shape and retained forgiveness, not because it costs more.

See our current used iron sets.

Focused FAQs

Are TaylorMade M2 irons still good in 2026?

Yes, for most golfers shopping on a budget. M2 is forgiving, well supported by used-market supply, and a decent set under about $600 is a good buy as long as the condition, shaft and set makeup check out.

Are M1 irons still worth buying?

They can be. M1 isn't something we'd pay a premium for, but if a clean M1 set is clearly cheaper than a comparable M4 or M6, it's a sensible used purchase. Condition, shaft and price matter more than the fact it's an older model.

Are M4 irons better than M2 irons?

They're close. M4 generally gives similar forgiveness in a slightly more current package, and if the price is close between the two we'd take M4. If M2 is meaningfully cheaper, that price gap is often the better deal.

M4 or M6: which would we buy?

M6 if the price difference over M4 is modest, since the extra forgiveness and distance are usually worth a small step up. If M6 is a lot more expensive, M4 remains a good, cheaper option.

Is a 5 through 9, PW set better than 6 through 9, PW, AW?

For most buyers, yes, mainly because the matching 5 iron is harder to find later than an approach wedge is to add. It's not an absolute rule though. If you don't use a 5 iron, a 6 through 9, PW, AW set can suit you just as well.

Is SIM2 Max much better than SIM Max?

Not dramatically. SIM2 Max is an evolution of SIM Max rather than a big leap. The choice between them should mostly come down to the price difference in front of you.

Is Stealth HD a 2022 iron?

No. Standard Stealth irons launched in 2022, and Stealth HD followed in 2023 as a separate, more specific high-launch variant.

Are P790 irons good for mid-handicap golfers?

They can suit some mid-handicappers, but P790 isn't tied to a specific handicap band. It suits golfers who want a cleaner, more compact players-performance shape while keeping real forgiveness, which is a preference rather than a skill threshold.